There is adventure travel, and then there is whatever Margeret Frei was doing in this tourist mecca emptied of all other tourists. St. Catherine is a picturesque town nestled in a bowl of towering granite mountains, one of which tradition says Moses descended 1,600 years ago carrying the Ten Commandments. The local Bedouins are gracious and low-key, the scenery is top-rate, and ordinarily the place teems with day-trippers arriving in buses to visit the 5th century Greek Orthodox monastery at the base of Mt. Sinai (around a sizeable shrub reputed to have ben the the burning bush). St. Catherine, in other words, adds a certain depth to a South Sinai tourist experience grounded in the world class snorkeling and the sun-baked lassitude on offer at the post Red Sea resorts an hour or two to the south and east.
But on an early autumn weekday Frei, who hails from Konstanz,
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